A plaque remaining from the Big Apple Night Club at West 135th Street and Seventh Avenue in Harlem.

Above, a 1934 plaque from the Big Apple Night Club at West 135th Street and Seventh Avenue in Harlem. Discarded as trash in 2006. Now a Popeyes fast food restaurant on Google Maps.

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Entry from September 22, 2008
Texas Tapenade

“Tapenade” comes from the Provençal word for capers, tapéno; it is a dish of capers, olives, anchovies and olive oil.
 
“Texas Tapenade” recipes have appeared in Texas Monthly (July 2004) and the book Cowgirl Cuisine (2007). The former recipe includes pickled nopalitos; the latter recipe includes crumbled pequin chiles.
 
 
Wikipedia: Tapenade
Tapenade is a Provençal dish consisting of puréed or finely chopped olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil. Its name comes from the Provençal word for capers, tapéno. It is a popular food in the south of France, where it is generally eaten as an hors d’œuvre, spread on gourmet breads such as baguette or ciabatta. Sometimes it is also used to stuff fillets for a main course.
 
History
Its present form was invented less than 100 years ago by the chef in the Maison Dorée in Marseilles, although olive-based pastes have existed in the region for a long time.
 
Preparation
Tapenade’s base ingredient is olive. The olives (most commonly black olive) and capers are finely chopped, crushed, or blended. Olive oil is then added until the mixture becomes a paste. Tapenade is often flavored differently in varying regions with other ingredients such as garlic, herbs, fish, lemon juice, or brandy. 
     
(Oxford English Dictionary)
tapénade
[Fr., f. Prov. tapéno capers.]
A Provençal dish, usu. served as an hors d’uvre, made principally from black olives, capers, and anchovies.
1952 G. MAUROIS Cooking with Fr. Touch iii. 56 Here is a southern (Nice) recipe for tapenade, which uses eggs, olives, and anchovies. Ibid., La tapenade used always to figure on the list of hors d’uvres at the old Hotel Victoria in Cannes.
1960 E. DAVID Fr. Provincial Cooking 142 To make the tapénade, called after the capers (tapéno in Provençal) which go into it. Ibid., The tapénade is served pressed down into little deep yellow earthenware pots, like a pâté.
1966 P. V. PRICE France: Food & Wine Guide 299 Tapenade or tapanda. Pounded black olives, served on toast or as an hors d’uvres.
1978 Times 20 May 10/2 Regular dishes such as tapénade (a Provençal purée of capers, black olives, anchovies, and sometimes tunny fish).
 
Texas Monthly (July 2004)
Goat Cheese Sampler with Texas Tapenade
2 cups pitted niçoise olives or other French black olives
1/4 cup Texas extra-virgin olive oil
1 anchovy filet
1 teaspoon capers
1 teaspoon pickled nopalitos, available at many supermarkets, including H-E-B and Central Market (or omit and double amount of capers)
1 sprig fresh thyme, leaves only, chopped
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
selection of Texas goat cheeses, about 1 pound in all
1 baguette, sliced
a few sprigs fresh herbes de Provence (such as lavender, marjoram, rosemary, sage, summer savory, basil, and thyme) for garnish (optional)
Texas rosé wine
 
Make Texas Tapenade
In a food processor, pulse olives just until coarsely chopped. Add olive oil, anchovy, capers, nopalitos, thyme, vinegar, salt, and pepper, and pulse until mixture forms a loose paste. Do not overprocess.
 
To Serve
Put a bowl of Texas Tapenade on a platter and surround with goat cheeses. Arrange slices of baguette around edge and garnish platter with sprigs of herbs. Accompany with Texas rosé. Serves 8.
 
Cooking with Rockstars (December 2, 2007)
Texas Tapenade
submitted by:
Jeremy Bruch (What Made Milwaukee Famous)
 
Ingredients
finely-chopped smoked portabellas
minced cilantro
minced garlic
minced anchovy
minced jalapeno
crushed toasted pecans
lemon juice/zest
olive oil
pinch of cumin
salt to taste
 
Instructions
Spread this on toasted baguette crisps. Watch people freak out.
 
Serious Eats
Cook the Book: Devilish Eggs with Texas Tapenade
Posted by Lucy Baker, May 8, 2008 at 1:30 PM
(...)
(The 2007 book Cowgirl Cuisine—ed.)
Devilish Eggs with Texas Tapenade
Ingredients
Texas Tapenade
1 garlic clove
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons capers
4 anchovies
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 to 3 crumbled pequin chiles (or pinch of crushed red pepper flakes)
12 ounces pitted kalamata (or other black, brine-cured olive), drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon Cognac or brandy
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
 
Devilish Eggs
1 dozen large eggs
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 generous tablespoons Dijon mustard
Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper
Dash or two of hot sauce
 
Procedure
1. Place the garlic and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until chopped. Add the capers, anchovies, rosemary, pequin chiles, olives, and Cognac and pulse to form a rough paste. With the motor running, add the oil in a steady stream and blend until completely smooth. Transfer the tapenade to a container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature and stir again before serving.
 
2. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Using a slotted spoon, gently lower the eggs into the water and simmer for 9 minutes. Reduce the heat if the boil becomes too lively so the eggs don’t crack. Drain the water from the saucepan and run cold water over the eggs until they are cool enough to handle. Peel the eggs and split them in half. Carefully remove the yolks (they should be slightly creamy) and place them in a small bowl. Add the mayonnaise, mustard, and salt, pepper, and hot sauce to taste, and whisk until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings as desired. Use a small spoon to scoop the yolk mixture back into the whites. (If you want to get fancy, you can also use a pastry bag to pipe the yolks back into their shells.) To serve, top each egg with a dollop of tapenade.

Posted by Barry Popik
Texas (Lone Star State Dictionary) • Monday, September 22, 2008 • Permalink


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